Tangier swarmed and swelled. Winds raced through the crowded city streets, men ogled and catcalled, making us glad we heeded the advice to dress conservatively–despite the humid heat. To the north, we could see Spain. To the south, unknown. We came to Tangier first; as if in order to understand our journey and ourselves we’d have to carry the torch that we unknowingly lit on prior trips to Europe, watch how the flame flickered as it ferried across the Mediterranean and then b